Tuesday, August 27, 2024

Icelandic Foodie Tour

For our last night in Iceland, we booked ourselves a Foodie Tour! Figured it would be a fun way to sample all the traditional Icelandic foods and say goodbye to our Iceland Vacation. The tour did not disappoint us – we had such a good time, despite the weather being so windy & cold I considered canceling to stay curled up in our hotel room with a good book and a cup of tea. Thankfully, Bryan convinced me to go – and also thankfully the wind died down after a bit.

Our guide for the evening was Ásthildur, a young local who was very energetic and fun. Her name translates to something like “Warrior of Love” so she goes by Love, since that’s easier for Americans to pronounce. She took us on a 3-hour tour of downtown Reykjavik, stopping at 5 different places for our meal that night.

First stop was the Forréttabarinn for their Lamb Appetizer. I don’t much like red meat (as most of you know) but I did try a small piece of the lamb at least, and then gave the rest of it to Bryan in exchange for his veggies. Both of us were quite happy with our apps!





Second stop was at the Sólon Islandus restaurant for some Arctic Char, some Hákarl (fermented shark) and a shot of Brennivín (a traditional Icelandic drink similar to vodka). Bryan and I were excited to try the Hákarl as we had heard a lot about it. We both found it to be rather okay – not horrible at all, which is what the other people on the tour thought of it. The Arctic Char was fabulous – Bryan is going to see if he can recreate the dish here at home even!






Third stop was at the Hannesarholt, a restaurant located in the historic home of the late Hannes Hafstein, Iceland’s first prime minister. They served us Plokkfiskur (a dish made with arctic char mixed in with mashed potatoes with chives and butter) and rye bread (more of a sweet brown cake).



Forth stop was the Bæjarins bestu pylsur, or the town’s best hot dog stand. Pylsa með öllu (One with everything) is apparently a MUST for every person visiting Iceland – but I have to admit that I just don’t care for hot dogs, even when I’m in Iceland. I took a couple bites of mine and then handed it off to Bryan – who not only ate his & mine but had gone earlier to get one when we first got to our hotel (we didn’t know we’d be getting one on the tour, and he wanted to be sure to try them) – so he ended up eating THREE of them!



Fifth and final stop for the evening was at the HótelBorg for a piece of their Hjónabandssæla (happy marriage cake), rather like a Rhubarb Crisp only a lot less sugary than what I’m used to. It is thought that if a wife makes this cake well enough, she will have a happy marriage.





 

Book Recommendations

Turns out that Filipa, the lead scientist on the Orca project, is a book reader just like I am! All throughout her presentation at the beginning of the expedition she kept interrupting herself, saying “Oh, I have a book on that subject, if you’re interested!”

The following are her recommendations, if you’re looking for some good reading: 

Into Great Silence: A Memoir of Discovery and Loss among Vanishing Orcas 

by Eva Saulitis 

Ever since Eva Saulitis began her whale research in Alaska in the 1980s, she has been drawn deeply into the lives of a single extended family of endangered orcas struggling to survive in Prince William Sound. Over the course of a decades-long career spent observing and studying these whales, and eventually coming to know them as individuals, she has, sadly, witnessed the devastation wrought by the Exxon Valdez oil spill of 1989—after which not a single calf has been born to the group. With the intellectual rigor of a scientist and the heart of a poet, Saulitis gives voice to these vital yet vanishing survivors and the place they are so loyal to. Both an elegy for one orca family and a celebration of the entire species, Into Great Silence is a moving portrait of the interconnectedness of humans with animals and place—and of the responsibility we have to protect them.

We Are All Whalers: The Plight of Whales and Our Responsibility 

by Michael J. Moore 

The image most of us have of whalers includes harpoons and intentional trauma. Yet eating commercially caught seafood leads to whales’ entanglement and slow death in rope and nets, and the global shipping routes that bring us readily available goods often lead to death by collision. We—all of us—are whalers, marine scientist and veterinarian Michael J. Moore contends. But we do not have to be.

Drawing on over forty years of fieldwork with humpback, pilot, fin, and, in particular, North Atlantic right whales—a species whose population has declined more than 20 percent since 2017—Moore takes us with him as he performs whale necropsies on animals stranded on beaches, in his independent research alongside whalers using explosive harpoons, and as he tracks injured whales to deliver sedatives. The whales’ plight is a complex, confounding, and disturbing one. We learn of existing but poorly enforced conservation laws and of perennial (and often failed) efforts to balance the push for fisheries profit versus the protection of endangered species caught by accident.

But despite these challenges, Moore’s tale is an optimistic one. He shows us how technologies for ropeless fishing and the acoustic tracking of whale migrations make a dramatic difference. And he looks ahead with hope as our growing understanding of these extraordinary creatures fuels an ever-stronger drive for change.

How to Speak Whale: The Power and Wonder of Listening to Animals 

by Tom Mustill 

On September 12, 2015, Tom Mustill was paddling in a two-person kayak with a friend just off the coast of California. It was cold, but idyllic—until a humpback whale breached, landing on top of them, releasing the energy equivalent of forty hand grenades. He was certain he was about to die, but they both survived, miraculously unscathed. In the interviews that followed the incident, Mustill was left with one question: What could this astonishing encounter teach us?
 
Drawing from his experience as a naturalist and wildlife filmmaker, Mustill started investigating human–whale interactions around the world when he met two tech entrepreneurs who wanted to use artificial intelligence (AI)—originally designed to translate human languages—to discover patterns in the conversations of animals and decode them. As he embarked on a journey into animal eavesdropping technologies, where big data meets big beasts, Mustill discovered that there is a revolution taking place in biology, as the technologies developed to explore our own languages are turned to nature.
 
From seventeenth-century Dutch inventors, to the whaling industry of the nineteenth century, to the cutting edge of Silicon Valley, How to Speak Whale examines how scientists and start-ups around the world are decoding animal communications. Whales, with their giant mammalian brains, virtuoso voices, and long, highly social lives, offer one of the most realistic opportunities for this to happen. But what would the consequences of such human animal interaction be?

We’re about to find out.

Puget Sound Whales for Sale: The Fight to End Orca Hunting 

by Sandra Pollard 

In November, 2005, Washington’s iconic killer whales, known as Southern Resident orcas, were placed on the endangered species list. It was a victory long overdue for a fragile population of fewer than one hundred whales. Author and certified marine naturalist Sandra Pollard traces the story and destinies of the many Southern Resident orcas captured for commercial purposes in or near the Puget Sound between 1964 and 1976. During this time, these highly intelligent members of the dolphin family lost nearly one-third of their population. Drawing on original archive material, this important volume outlines the history of orca captivity while also recounting the harrowing struggle—and ultimate triumph—for the Puget Sound orcas’ freedom.

The Killer Whale Journals: Our Love and Fear of Orcas 

by Hanne Strager 

Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award by the NOBA Foundation, Honorable mention for the Sigurd Olson Nature Writing Awards by the Northland College

When intrepid biology student Hanne Strager volunteered to be the cook on a small research vessel in Norway's Lofoten Islands, the trip inspired a decades-long journey into the lives of killer whales―and an exploration of people's complex relationships with the biggest predators on earth. The Killer Whale Journals chronicles the now internationally renowned science writer's fascinating adventures around the world, documenting Strager's personal experiences with orcas in the wild.

Killer whales' incredible intelligence, long life spans, and strong family bonds lead many people to see them as kindred spirits in the sea. But not everyone feels this way―like wolves, orcas have been both beloved and vilified throughout human history. In this absorbing odyssey, Strager traces the complicated relationship between humans and killer whales, while delving into their behavior, biology, and ecology. She brings us along in her travels to the most remote corners of the world, battling the stormy Arctic seas of northern Norway with fellow biologists intent on decoding whale-song, interviewing First Nations conservationists in Vancouver, observing Inuit hunters in Greenland, and witnessing the dismantling of black market "whale jails" in the Russian wilderness of Kamchatka. Through these captivating stories, Strager introduces us to a diverse cast of characters from Inuit elders to Australian Aboriginal whalers and guides us through the world's wild waters, from fjords above the Arctic circle in Norway to the poaching-infested waters off Kamchatka. Featuring astonishing photographs from famed nature photographer and conservationist Paul Nicklen, TheKiller Whale Journals reveals rare and intimate moments of connection with these fierce, brilliant predators.

Eat, Poop, Die: How Animals Make Our World 

by Joe Roman 

If forests are the lungs of the planet, then animals migrating across oceans, streams, and mountains—eating, pooping, and dying along the way—are its heart and arteries, pumping nitrogen and phosphorus from deep-sea gorges up to mountain peaks, from the Arctic to the Caribbean. Without this conveyor belt of crucial, life-sustaining nutrients, the world would look very different. 

The dynamics that shape our physical world—atmospheric chemistry, geothermal forces, plate tectonics, and erosion through wind and rain—have been explored for decades. But the effects on local ecosystems of less glamorous forces—rotting carcasses and deposited feces—as well as their impact on the global climate cycle, have been largely overlooked. The simple truth is that pooping and peeing are daily rituals for almost all animals, the ellipses of ecology that flow through life. We eat, we poop, and we die.
 
From the volcanoes of Iceland to the tropical waters of Hawaii, the great plains of the American heartland, and beyond, Eat, Poop, Die, “compulsively readable” (Shelby Van Pelt), takes readers on an exhilarating and enlightening global adventure, revealing the remarkable ways in which the most basic biological activities of animals make and remake the world—and how a deeper understanding of these cycles provides us with opportunities to undo the environmental damage humanity has wrought on the planet we call home.

Killer Whales of Southern Alaska 

by Dena Matkin 

Whales, Orcas, Killer whales, Alaska, ocean, predators, mammals, Southern Alaska

 

Killer Whales and Their Prey in Iceland

This expedition is my 9th with Earthwatch and is Bryan’s 3rd. It is, however, our first one together! 12 days on the island of Vestmannaeyjar, to study and protect killer whales.

We joined two other couples for the expedition: Marty Goldenberg & Christine Somers from N. Carolina/New York, and Stuart Saslow & Jesse Hutt from Colorado.


The house they rented for us had three bedrooms upstairs, so it worked out perfectly: each couple got their own room, with one bathroom between us all. Downstairs, we shared the kitchen/dining/living space – each taking turns cooking dinners and fending for ourselves for breakfast.




Dr. Filipa Samarra was our Lead Investigator on the project; she had 5 students working for her as well as 2 boat captains. All of them were perfectly wonderful people, and each one went out of their way to make us all feel welcomed and valued.


Filipa - Lead Investigator from Portugal

AYÇA (pronounced Eye-Sha) - Project Coordinator from Turkey

EILIDH (rhymes with Haley but without the H) - Project Photographer from Scottland

Joe - Student Scientist from London

Lena - Student Scientist from Germany

Lucy - Student Scientist from London

Aly - Boat Captain from Pennsylvania

Magnus - Boat Captain from Germany/Portugal

Our first day “on the job” was spent learning what the job is and how to do it. We got presentations by numerous students, learning all about Killer Whales and the surrounding area. The office where they do their work is very modern, with offices, labs, a kitchen/break room, and easy access to the boat harbor right across the street.



We basically had three jobs:

Photo ID = each time they go out on the boat, the photographer takes as many pictures as possible, trying to get good photos. We then took the photos and compared them to the database, one at a time, trying to make an identification.



BOAT WORK = if weather conditions allow, you go out on the boat and look for whales. Once a pod is located, you try to get good photos for ID purposes, take biological samples if needed, attach telemetry tags if available, observe behavioral patterns, and record vocalizations.



LAND WORK = when not doing either of the two jobs above, we were out at the far end of the island observing all species of whales using high-magnification binoculars. We recorded the positions and behavior of any whales observed and helped record data on environmental factors. We were also in contact with the boat crew (if they were out that day) to inform them of the whale’s location.



Our house was only about a mile and a half from the office, if we had office work that day, we would walk to work (unless it was too stormy, then they would come get us in the car). Vestmannaeyjar is a cute little town, and we got to know it fairly quickly. They even had a public pool so Bryan could soak in the hot water each evening.



All in all, we had a great time. I would highly recommend this expedition to all of you!